My stay in Van, Turkey is lasting longer than expected, but not without reason. I made the kind of encounter that scarcely happens in a lifetime. That involves getting an insight into the speechless life of my dear friend Ангелина, learning Русский Жестовый Язык (Russian sign language), and learning to live silently amongst a society filled with noise.
I will be hitting the road in 6 days, towards Iran, armed with silence.
My intial plan was the direct route through Asia, and it included Afghanistan. It would have been a real challenge. From accounts of the few people in history who have walked through the entire country, I'd estimate my chances of survival at 50%. This would also mean spending 2 months in war zones, and personally, I've had enough of getting shot at.
After months of painfully churning the question over in my mind and finding no alternative purely on foot, a simple discussion with a friend unlocked a whole new world for me: I learn there is a border crossing, open to foreigners, leading through the grey zones from China to Pakistan. This change of plans will add 4000 km to my route, 7 more countries, and a whole year on the road: besides the extra distance, this will add 5 months of working in Georgia to avoid being in Kazakhstan in the middle of winter, and a few months of working in China to give me the time necessary for my Pakistani visa. The road won't be easy. It will include entire months crossing the deserts of Kazakhstan and 4500 meter high passes in the Himalayas. But I am now the happiest person on earth with a new solid plan allowing me to fulfill my dream.
I am finally a semi-permanent resident in the city of Van, Turkey. Crossing Turkish Kurdistan was no easy task: I had my share of death threats, of fears, of gunshots. I've slept everywhere from mosques to police stations, from beaches to dumpsters. But I am ok, my body in one piece, my mind recovering. I've now been volunteering at Van's Backpacker's Hostel for a month, living the local life. I have another 2 months here before making my way through Iran, when the weather will allow it. At 1640 meters high, the soda-salt Lake Van makes for a blessed exeperience, with cool and breezy weather even in the middle of July, when the plains are scorching hot. This is the perfect time to recharge my batteries, do my paperwork, find fresh new tires, fresh new shoes, and a fresh new mind for the 5000 kilometers awaiting me.
I nearly finished walking through Turkey, which is by far the largest country I've ever crossed. I am now in the region of Kurdistan, which is by no means devoid of armed conflict between the Turkish Army and PKK rebels. Is it easy? No. Am I ok? Yes, by the grace of god. Do I still meet amazing people along the road, full of love and kindness? Absolutely.
When a police car stops, it's not to ask for my passport: it's to ask if I'm ok. It's not to give me a hard time, it's to give me food. When they bring me to the police station, it's not for interrogation, it's for lunch. They ask if I have a tent, not to fine me but to make sure I'll be ok at night.
Imray and Sekeria were two of those sweet-hearted officers. They even gave me a rose. "We stand for peace, just like you do with your white flag. Our very job is to maintain peace. In fact, you can document this encounter and show the world that we, the police in Eastern Turkey, are here for everyone's well-being." So here it is, I'm documenting this encounter, and with so much gratitude.
Halfway through Turkey, and also halfway through my trip to India! Life is still just as easy as it was when I started. Since day 1, people have been telling me Of course it's easy, but wait till you get further east! And here I am, further and further east... And still I don't know what they're talking about! Hurray!
Yes it's official, the world is trustworthy! It always gives you what you need, when you need it. Even when the situation seems hopeless. The only thing you have to do is trust it: it's easier than it seems. I had pouring rain, heaps of snow, mud, slush, and freezing wind almost every night for a week. First, I worried. How in the world will I pitch my tent in this mess? But now, I trust. The world is taking care of me, because every one of those nights miracles appeared out of nowhere, like this abandoned Unicef shipping container which made a very dry and comfy home.
It's ever-so-rare that anyone walks with me for more than a mile. Well this time, my brother Jonas walked 120 km with me as we exited Istanbul out into the Turkish wilderness. We slept all over the place and lived the real gipsy life! Of course everyone thought we were crazy, but we found the greatest respect in every encounter we made. Beautiful country, beautiful people.
People often ask me about my family. "Do they even know you're doing this? It must be horrible for them!" Actually, not only do they know, but they come and see me on the road and we have amazing times together! Istanbul was one of these places where I gave myself a walking deadline so we could meet with my mom and brother. One week of meditating in the mosques, playing music, dancing in the streets, and sleeping in a bed was a real change in lifestyle! However, as the photo suggests, walking out of such a huge city was a challenge. It took my brother and I two days, one sleepless night, 63 km of walking in order to simply find a green space to set camp.
The most significant border crossing in my trip, exiting europe after almost a year of travel, into the total unknown. It was such a blessed day. First, it cost me a few hours of persistence to cross the no man's land bridge, guarded by the army and loaded with dynamite. Yes, they can blow you up at the touch of a button! But with great difficulty comes great reward. The first town I cross, İpsala, gave me a good introduction to the country: I walk into a café just looking to make an online update, and instead I am invited for countless teas, turkish delights, a visit to the mosque, a beautiful meal, hours of laughter and conversation, a night in a students' flat and even a marriage proposal! Hello Turkey!
